Routes of life

Chateau Vartely
The Orhei area’s main claim to fame is that over the centuries it has been home to several fortresses. In fact, Orhei is Hungarian for “place of the fortress.” Chateau Vartely’s owners wanted a winery name that reflected the area’s fortress heritage. So they chose Vartely, the Moldovan term for “place of the fortress.” Just 45 kilometers from Chisinau, Château Vartely boasts…
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Poiana Winery
If you wanted the perfect vineyard setting for a movie, you need look no further than the Poiana Winery. And in fact, a famous film was made here — Romanian-born director Emil Loteanu’s 1976 epic about gypsies, “O Șatră Urcă în Cer.”. It doesn’t get any better than sipping on an extraordinary glass of wine while taking in the magnificent views of…
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Asconi Winery
If you want a culinary destination that’s in a lovely country setting, but not hours away from the city, consider the Asconi Winery, less than 30 minutes’ drive from Chisinau. Its traditional gastronomic attractions included grilled eggplant salad, baked pepper stew, cowpeas and pies to die for, filled with potatoes, cabbage or cheese. There’s also chicken soup with homemade noodles, with sprinklings…
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Castel Mimi Winery
Castel Mimi’s name comes from the imposing castle that one of Moldova’s larger-than-life figures, Constantin Mimi, built on his wine-growing estate. Mimi, the last governor of Bessarabia and the head of Romania’s central bank, played a major role in Moldova becoming a world-class wine producer. He actually learned his craft for years from wine masters in France. Restored after more than a…
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Et Cetera
The Et Cetera winery is a slice of Moldova that is so enchanting that it is easy to feel like you’re in another world. The oasis that the Luchianov family created at Crocmaz features breathtaking views, postcard-perfect vineyards, peach orchards, fragrant lavender fields, a small but fancy winery, a mouth-watering restaurant and an exquisite hotel with swimming pool. Nina Luchianov, the mother…
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Purcari Winery
The Purcari winery is nestled between the Nistru River and Black Sea in a setting that only the word “idyllic” can do justice to. The estate includes two lakes, where you can relax by boating or fishing, and vineyards surrounding the château that delight the eyes. Château Purcari not only produces fantastic wines, but serves them with exquisite a la carte dishes…
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Chateau Cojusna Winery
Chateau Cojusna is just 15 kilometers from Chisinau, so it’s an easy day trip from the capital. If you go, visit their wine collection. The chateau stores 175,000 bottles in the cool confines of its underground caverns. Most are dessert wines, including Marsala, a variety that is hard to find in Moldova these days. Chateau Cojusna gives its tastings in a room…
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Milestii Mici Winery
Milestii Mici boasts the world’s largest collection of wine. Two million bottles are stored in 55 kilometers of underground caverns that excavators carved out of the limestone to sell for building material. Milestii Mici’s contention that it has the world’s largest wine collection is not an idle boast. The Guinness Book of Records has certified the claim. Twenty-five thousand tourists a year…
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Cricova Winery
Moldova has earned a worldwide reputation as a producer of fine wines, and a key contributor to that fame is the Cricova winery. The huge underground limestone caverns where Cricova’s traditional and sparkling wines are stored have become almost as legendary as the quality of the beverages. The caverns draw about 50,000 international visitors a year. The government has recognized them as…
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